New Kitten Guide
Whether you’re considering welcoming a kitten to your family, or you’ve already brought one home, we want to help support you!
Read on to find answers to all those new-pet questions, and help your new furry friend to settle in to their new home.
What to expect
Your new kitten will sleep for up to 18 hours a day!
When your kitten is awake they should be bright, playful, and energetic.
Unless travelling in the car, it is unusual for kittens to vomit.
Your kitten should rarely sneeze or cough.
Food and Drink
Feeding:
You should be feeding your kitten a “kitten” food - this will have the additional energy needed to help them grow!
Don’t change a kitten’s food suddenly - they have sensitive stomachs.
Kittens prefer to be fed little and often - around 3-4 times per day.
As long as the food is “complete” (check the label for this specific wording), you can feed your kitten dry food, wet food, or a mix of both.
Each food will have different guidelines, so look at the packet to check what is appropriate for a kitten of your pet’s age and weight.
Water:
Kittens should have clean fresh water available at all times.
A pet water fountain can help increase their interest in drinking.
A cat’s water should be placed away from their food, and away from their litter tray.
Bonus information: Wild Instincts
In the wild, still water is more likely to be stagnant and unsafe to drink, while running water is generally safer and fresher.
Cats’ wild ancestors developed a preference for running water as a survival mechanism, and they passed this down to our domestic housecats today!
Likewise, cats generally do not want their food or litter tray near their water. Water sources contaminated with carcasses or faeces would also be unsafe to drink, so cats still instinctually prefer to toilet and to eat away from where they drink.
Toileting
Your kitten should be passing well-formed brown poo 2-4 times a day, and passing straw-coloured urine frequently without signs of pain (such as straining or yowling when in the litter tray).
Litter tray basics:
Kittens should not go outside until they have been microchipped, fully vaccinated, and neutered.
When indoors, they should be provided with at least one litter tray to toilet in.
If you have more than one cat in the household, it's best to provide one tray per cat, and one extra.
So, three trays for a two-cat household, four trays for a three-cat household, and so on.
litter tray tips for success:
The litter trays should be large enough for the kitten to turn around and dig in. We want to feel comfortable in the bathroom, and so do they!
If your kitten is not using the litter tray appropriately, you can try different styles of tray, moving the trays to different locations, or using different types of litter.
Cats like to feel safe and secure when they’re using the toilet (don’t we all). If a certain tray makes them feel trapped or over-exposed, they might not use it.
Litter trays should be placed away from your kitten’s food and their water.
Vaccinations
Core vaccinations:
Kittens will need a course of two vaccinations, 3-4 weeks apart. The first vaccine is normally given when the kitten is 8-9 weeks old.
Kittens are generally considered fully protected 3-4 weeks after their second and final vaccinations.
The vaccinations protect against the following diseases:
Rhinotracheitis (an upper respiratory infection, or “cat flu”)
Calicivirus (another type of “cat flu”, which can also cause lifelong dental disease)
Panleukopenia (a type of parvovirus, aka “feline distemper”)
Feline Leukemia Virus (an incurable disease which causes immunosuppression and predisposes cats to developing cancer)
booster vaccinations:
All cats need a top-up “booster” vaccine annually.
travel vaccinations:
If you plan on travelling overseas with your kitten, they will need a rabies vaccination.
The classic rabies virus does not exist in the U.K., so pets are not routinely vaccinated against it. It is only done upon request.
The rabies vaccine can be given to pets from 12 weeks of age.
Travel requirements can be complex and extensive, so always check with government agencies DEFRA/APHA, or with a specialised pet travel company, to get the most accurate information.
Parasite Control
cat parasite guide:
Intestinal worms
These include species such as roundworm and hookworm.
These parasites are commonly found in soil.
Humans can also be affected by these parasites - children especially.
ticks
Ticks are present in grassy areas of London. Most tick bites occur in the summer, but they can affect your cat at other times of year as well.
Ticks latch on to your pet and feed off their blood for a number of days. During this time, they can pass diseases on to your pet.
If you ever see a tick on your pet, please contact us so we can safely remove it.
fleas
Fleas live outside in the grass, and also infest other animals - including humans!
Cats are often allergic to flea bites, and even a single bite can make them break out in an itchy, bumpy rash.
Fleas only hop onto animals for a quick meal; they spend most of their time in the surrounding environment. If your cat gets a flea infestation, this makes it very important to treat your home for fleas as well as your cat.
Prevention of fleas is much easier than cure!
tapeworms
Cats are especially likely to acquire tapeworms if they hunt and eat wild prey, such as rodents.
Fleas can be infected with tapeworms, and cats can acquire tapeworm from them.
cat parasite medication:
At Pet People, we generally recommend using two products simultaneously to give your cat the broadest possible protection against parasites. Lower risk cats may benefit from different treatment protocols - check with your vet!
Bravecto Plus:
This is a liquid which you apply to the back of your cat’s neck once every three months. It treats any infestation they may have, and prevents future infestations. It covers fleas, ticks, mites, roundworms, hookworms, and feline lungworm.
Milpro or Droncit:
These are both tablets given by mouth once every 3 months, which treat and prevent tapeworm infestation.
Your kitten may have picked up fleas, ear mites, or worms from their mum - it’s very common!
Many supermarket or pet shop parasite control products are ineffective, as the parasite populations have grown resistant to them over time.
To guarantee effective treatment and prevention, we always recommend using prescription-strength parasite control products.
Bonus information: PARASITE FACTS
Spaying and Neutering
We strongly advise neutering kittens from the age of 4-6 months,
unless there are compelling medical reasons not to.
why neuter?
Female cats can reach puberty as young as 4 months, and can become pregnant from that time onwards.
Cats are exceptionally skilled at getting pregnant, and a single unspayed female can give birth to over 100 kittens in her lifetime.
Cats in heat are single-minded escape artists, and they will find a way to get outside and meet some boys.
Cats do not understand the concept of “incest”, and will have no qualms about mating with their own siblings or parents.
Unspayed female cats will be in heat for around 10 days, every two weeks. At this time they will be agitated, vocal, and desperate to get outside.
Unspayed female cats have a much greater risk of mammary cancers.
Unneutered male cats will be highly motivated to roam, to fight other cats, and to spray concentrated urine to mark their territory.
Due to fighting, unneutered male cats are at much higher risk for incurable diseases like FIV and FeLV, as well as permanent injury and disfigurement.
what does NEUTERING involve?
For male cats, neutering involves removing the testes from the scrotum. It is a very short and straightforward procedure, taking only minutes to perform. Their recovery period is likewise generally short and straightforward!
For female cats, neutering involves a more invasive procedure, where the reproductive organs are removed from the abdomen. Female cats will usually have a slightly longer recovery time than male cats, but typically recover very well!
Microchipping
Microchipping of all cats over 20 weeks of age will be mandatory from June of 2024.
We can microchip your kitten at the time of their first or second vaccination. This is safest, just in case of accidental escape!
For more information, see our microchipping page.
Insurance
why should i get insurance?
Even a perfectly healthy kitten can suddenly fall ill or have an accident to the tune of thousands of pounds. We know you will want to do everything to help your new family member should this happen.
The best time to get pet insurance is when your pet is young and healthy.
When you purchase an insurance policy, you usually cannot make a claim immediately. An insurance policy needs to be in place before your pet becomes unwell.
To get a sense of the kind of costs involved with emergency and long-term care, take a look at our pricing page.
what kind of insurance is best?
We cannot recommend any specific insurance providers. Each provider and each policy is different!
Generally, the policies which provide the most utility will involve “lifetime” cover: this means that if your pet develops a recurring or a long-term condition, the insurance will continue to cover it year after year. Other policies will be cheaper up-front, but may provide much less support long-term.
Ideally, we would recommend purchasing a policy which will cover vet costs of up to £7,000-£12,000 per year.
One provider, Pet Plan, offers 4 weeks of free pet insurance for kittens who have had a health check with a vet. This gives you extra time to figure out what insurance works for you, while reassuring you that your kitten is covered in case anything happens.
how does pet insurance work?
Pet insurance companies take regular payments (premiums) from pet owners who purchase a policy with them. In return, they help pet owners pay for treatment for injuries and illnesses.
In addition to their premiums, owners will have to pay a certain portion of the bill for vet fees - this is the “excess”. The amount of excess varies between providers and policies.
Pet insurance does not cover routine or maintenance treatment, such as vaccinations or neutering.
If in doubt, it’s always worth reading your policy paperwork, or contacting your insurance provider directly.
Pet People Family
Pet People Family is Pet People’s health plan, paid by monthly direct debit.
Family Membership entitles you to free-of-charge routine vaccinations, all parasite treatment, and unlimited consults with a vet or nurse.
Family Membership is not pet insurance; it covers the type of routine treatments which pet insurance generally does not pay for. The two can work very well alongside each other!
You can sign up online, or in-person when you come to visit us.
For kittens and cats, the cost is £36.00 per month. In most cases, this will offer you a considerable saving over the course of the year.
Poisons
There are a number of common household items which can be toxic to curious little kittens!
Food:
Raisins and grapes
Chocolate
Onions, garlic, leeks, and any food cooked with these.
other household items:
Lilies are severely toxic to cats, and even cats licking a little pollen off their fur can be extremely dangerous. If you believe your cat has ingested or licked any part of a lily, call your nearest vet immediately.
Other plants, including poinsettias and daffodils, can also be toxic to cats if chewed.
Anti-freeze tastes appealing to cats, but is highly toxic.
Dog flea treatment products often contain an ingredient which is toxic to cats. Always use cat-specific parasite treatment products.
Cats are fussier eaters than dogs, so they’re less likely to eat something dangerous. However, if a cat gets a toxic substance on their fur or paws, they will ingest it when they groom themselves.
For more information on cat toxins, please read this leaflet from the Veterinary Poisons Information Service.
Training and Play
training:
While you can’t train a kitten the way you might train a dog, you can still help them develop habits and behaviours that will benefit both of you through their lives!
Getting kittens used to vet visits and being examined is incredibly useful. Try desensitising your kitten to the following stimuli by doing them gently at home, with lots of encouragement and treats:
Getting in and out of the carrier
Being picked up
Having their paws and faces touched
Having their mouth gently opened
You can also work on getting your kitten used to having their nails clipped and their fur brushed - this will make things much easier when they get bigger!
Cats have very short attention spans - try to keep training sessions to 5 minutes or less.
play:
Kittens are extremely playful, and if you don’t provide them with appropriate toys and play, they’ll make their own fun - possibly by scratching your favourite sofa!
Some cats love to chase, some love to leap, some love to hide and pounce. Try out a variety of different toys and see which ones your kitten loves!
Playing with your kitten isn’t just an entertaining bonding activity - it also provides them with exercise and mental stimulation, making them happier and healthier.
Play is extremely important - and fun!
New Kitten Shopping List
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Food and water bowls
A complete kitten food (dry and/or wet)
A water fountain to encourage drinking
Kitten-friendly treats
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Cats often choose their own preferred nap spots without human interference, but providing soft blankets, squishy beds, and sheltered hideaways is always a good idea!
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At least one toy each of the following groups:
something they can chase (eg, a ball or small toy mouse)
Something big enough that they can hold it with their front paws and kick it with their back paws
Something small and soft enough that they can carry it in their mouth
A tunnel, cube, or other hideaway
A long “wand” toy
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A comb, soft slicker brush, and soft bristle brush
Nail clippers (we can show you how to use these safely!)
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cratching is a behavioural and physical need for cats, and if you don't provide them with appropriate places to scratch, they'll do it on your most beloved heirlooms.
Scratching posts should be 1.5 times as tall as your cat is long. They need to be able to have a good stretch!
Some cats like sisal scratchers, some like cardboard, some like carpet. Try each type and see which your kitten prefers.
You can get horizontal scratch pads as well as vertical scratching posts. Some cats prefer one type over the other, some love both!
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At least one litter tray per kitten, plus one.
Litter trays should be big enough for the kitten to turn around in, and easy for them to climb in and out of.
Cat litter can be broadly categorised as clumping or non-clumping.
Clumping litter forms a hard ball around liquid waste, and non-clumping litter absorbs it.
Clumping litter needs to be scooped more frequently, but tends to have better odour control, and the whole tray needs to be changed less regularly.
Non-clumping litter only needs to be scooped when your kitten passes faeces, but you will need to change all the litter in the tray more frequently.
Whichever type of litter you go with, we recommend getting the biggest litter tray scoop you can for sifting it - this will save you a lot of time!
You can get special bins for disposing of cat litter, which have excellent odour control and capacity.
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A cat carrier which can be securely closed, and has enough space for the kitten to stand, sit, and turn around.
